Paris: Travel Suggestions

[Guest053011]

I didn't get the chance, but France recently lifted it's ban on Absinthe and you may want to make a point of enjoying some.

La Truffe Noire
2 Place Parmentier
truffenoire.net

A charming little spot, specializing in - you guessed it - black truffles! It's cozy and elegant without being pompous. The staff is warm and helpful, always happy to help you improve your French if you ask, but quite capable of serving you in English. I found our server most enchanting. Each dish can be had with or without Truffle. The foie gras could make one weak in the knees - but can one expect less in Paris? I ordered the Beef which came with an abundant amount of truffle cream and added sliced truffle to that. It was mouth watering and magnificent. The Black Truffle Souffle with truffle ice cream was the most memorable - I couldn't imagine it when I ordered, but was thrilled that I had. The ice cream in particular had a very strong flavour with an earthy undertone that may not appeal to some, but the souffle lacked the earthiness and was unquestionably the star of the dessert.


Le 114 Faubourg
114 rue du Faubourg Saint Honore

Located inside the Bristol Hotel, this is their more relaxed dining experience. It's a cheerful and unique interior, beautiful large flowers adorning the walls and metallic veins along the staircase. The service is cheerful and inviting, with delicious dishes. I found myself focusing on the seared tuna and shellfish carpaccio. A lovely place for a less formal meal in a smart environment.

Pierre Gagnaire
44 Rue du Bac

A formal experience, in a modern, luxurious setting. There is an astounding amount of food served over the course of several hours, so make sure you're starving when you arrive. It is revered by many as the finest restaurant in Paris, which means that the menu is eclectic and experimental in it's combination of flavours and textures. Their desserts are almost exclusively souffles, so light it's almost like eating flavoured air. It was astonishing how many servers they had for each table, and particularly charming to see the gentlemen in white gloves. One of the most memorable meals of my life.

L'Ambroisie
9 Place Vosges

A very old world formal dining experience. There are no English menus offered, but the waiters are very happy to take the time and explain the menu in detail. The restaurant appears to be large, but it's hard to tell, as it is made up of small rooms that have no more then 6 tables. It reminds me of high end Chinese dining, where two waiters wait in the dining room carefully eying the tables around them. Cough lightly and a glass of water appears, drop something and a waiter materializes. The food was spectacular, and I found that following the waiter's suggestions was met with great appreciation and extra care. This gem seems to be more regularly visited by older business men. Not to be missed.

Shopping:

Caron
90 Rue Fbg St Honoré

Specializing in evocative perfumes and fine powders, it was the lace fans in the window that drew me in. They are absolutely dazzling pieces, with classic styles and more modern sensibilities. They are always delicate in appearance but solidly crafted. It brings back the femininity of a time long ago. With various colors you can match specifically to an outfit, or find something that will easily go with all your dresses. Prices ranging from 75 Euros to 250.

Gants Muriel
4 Rue des Saussaies

Luxurious gloves for men and women! I was lost in paradise and picked up some stunning piece I know I wouldn't have found anywhere else. They are so well crafted, and provide styles that have long left the mainstream fashion scene. Lace, leather, cashmere, cotton, silk, this little shop has it all. It's a little shop, with a pretty window display, and another display inside the shop. All the gloves are kept in large wooden drawers, giving the place an old world feel. You have to let her know what you want and she'll fetch the appropriate drawer. The lady behind the counter had limited English abilities, but with some gesturing, pointing and descriptive words, we were able to communicate smoothly. The styles are both modern and classic - it was the classic pairs that took my breath away. Gloves of this nature and quality are not easy to come by. Prices ranging from 40 Euros to 200.

Maison Caillau
124 Rue Du Faubourg Saint-Honor

A shop brimming with fine quality hair and nail accessories. All of them beautiful with a wide range in price. They have a fantastic collection of Berets that are hand crafted by Parisian artisans, but these come with an impressive price tag to mach their glamorous visage. From 5 Euros to 500.

Accommodations:


Le Pavillion D'Lettre
12 rue des Saussaies

The hotel is fantastically located, the concierge amazingly warm, charming and eager to help. The hotel is small, very new, and extremely private. There are only 26 rooms, each of them representing a letter of the alphabet, that in turn represents an author. Being a bibliophile it's no surprise this was my first choice. The room will contain a work by the author, and have a piece of his written out above the bed. I understand that the rooms are small, however, the suites are quite spacious for a major European city.

[EJunkie]

Try Harry's New York Bar. It's where the American ex-pats (Hemingway and others) hung out; doesn't look like it's changed since then. Great Scotch collection (i.e. a collection not for drinking) by the front door.

Also rumored to be where the Bloody Mary was invented.

[Guest053011]

Originally Posted by EJunkie

Try Harry's New York Bar. It's where the American ex-pats (Hemingway and others) hung out; doesn't look like it's changed since then. Great Scotch collection (i.e. a collection not for drinking) by the front door.

Also rumored to be where the Bloody Mary was invented.

Alas, I leave in the morning, but will note it for a return trip.

[TexTushHog]

i can certainly second the recommendation of Pierre Gagnaire and L'Ambroisie. But they are both very expensive. And by expensive, I mean really, really expensive. More than any comparable restaurant in New York. But well worth it if you can afford it. You will remember your meals at both until the day you die.

[Guest053011]

Originally Posted by TexTushHog

i can certainly second the recommendation of Pierre Gagnaire and L'Ambroisie. But they are both very expensive. And by expensive, I mean really, really expensive. More than any comparable restaurant in New York. But well worth it if you can afford it. You will remember your meals at both until the day you die.

Like many restaurants of it's nature, the ladies menu has no prices. I have no clue what the range was for any of them.

[TexTushHog]

Probably just as well not to have a clue. Easily $400 per person, before wine.

I've most recently eaten at l'Amboisie. Appetizers were around 75 - 85€; mains 130 - 175€; deserts 25 - 30€. Cheeses course would add 35 or 40€.

Add a modest bottle of wine, you're well, well over $500 or 600/person. It really is necessary to tell people who have never been to Micheline three star in Europe just how expensive it can be. There is really no comparable level of expense, at least that I'm aware of, in the U.S. So if they hear that it's a "very, very expensive" restaurant, they might figure that they can get our for $150 per person and end up rather shocked.

[Guest053011]

750 - 800 euros for the meals at L'Ambroisie and Pierre Gagnaire, with a half bottle of wine. It is comparable to Per Se in New York in price.

Originally Posted by TexTushHog

Probably just as well not to have a clue. Easily $400 per person, before wine.

I've most recently eaten at l'Amboisie. Appetizers were around 75 - 85€; mains 130 - 175€; deserts 25 - 30€. Cheeses course would add 35 or 40€.

Add a modest bottle of wine, you're well, well over $500 or 600/person. It really is necessary to tell people who have never been to Micheline three star in Europe just how expensive it can be. There is really no comparable level of expense, at least that I'm aware of, in the U.S. So if they hear that it's a "very, very expensive" restaurant, they might figure that they can get our for $150 per person and end up rather shocked.

[TexTushHog]

Last time I was at Per Se, the Pris Fixe menu was $295/person. That's a good bit less than at L'Ambroisie and Pierre Gagnaire. Plus, that's a tasting menu. The prices I quoted at L'Ambroise was just three or four courses.

[Guest053011]

Originally Posted by TexTushHog

Last time I was at Per Se, the Pris Fixe menu was $295/person. That's a good bit less than at L'Ambroisie and Pierre Gagnaire. Plus, that's a tasting menu. The prices I quoted at L'Ambroise was just three or four courses.

I recall my meal at Per Se for two with wine coming out to about 1K. It was a preset tasting menu if I recall correctly. The only option was vegetarian or meat.

L'Ambroisie had a three course meal with an amuse bouche thrown in. Pierre Gagnaire had a RIDICULOUS amount of food. You could order a la carte, and each dish came with several small dishes. Never mind the 3 amuse bouche that came before they started serving what you ordered, and the pre-dessert before your souffle arrived! I was starving when I got there and by the time my main course arrived was out of steam when I got through half of it. Thank goodness souffle takes so long to prepare - a rare instance where you are not asked to order it at the beginning of your meal. I think they know you'll need the digestion time!

[discreetgent]

I have been at Per Se twice. Both times it was a party of 4 and the total cost was north of 2K.

[atlcomedy]

Can I hijack this and get the first ever "NPOF (No Plate of Food) is worth...." thread started?

I think TTH has the right idea for comparisons: stick to the food. Once you add the wine or talk about total bills it's tough to say what's what.

[discreetgent]

250-275 Euro without wine works out to 350-400 USD using current exchange rates.

As far as NPOF: someday I hope you have the chance to try the dish of a whole black truffle at the 3 star michelin in Reims accompanied by a vintage champagne.

[TexTushHog]

Once you add wine, it can cost anything you want it to, depending on what wine you order. And I'm a wine nut, so it's really difficult to go to l'Ambrossie and see a great wine list with wonderful older vintages and not order a great bottle. But I choose to order a more modest bottle because of the cost of the meal. Maybe that's short sighted, but dropping much more than $1k for dinner for two is a bit jarring for me personally.

[Guest083011]

Originally Posted by TexTushHog

But I choose to order a more modest bottle because of the cost of the meal.

I imagine a modest bottle is still probably very good. Wise choice. I've done the same at French Laundry. Modest being a relative terms. I did not see Thunderbird in the wine list.

[TexTushHog]

Speaking of Paris, and the hobby, here is an interesting story:

http://www.slate.com/id/2289282/entry/2289283/