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Old 10-09-2013, 03:52 PM   #1
Hot to Trot Daphne
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Default Joyrider Toilet/Rimming Chair... help!!

http://www.stockroom.com/The-Joyride...air-P2000.aspx

I want one of these but I don't want to spend $400 bucks on it and there are a couple of minor changes I would want to make. Does anyone have any suggestions on assembly or where I could buy the parts for it. The thing that is most important to me are sturdiness, so I will make sure that I get steel pipe and maximum strength springs. What would be the best way to attach the springs to the seat?

I've been getting more requests for toilet training and my current method though it works sometimes is a little uncomfortable when it comes to brown showers. I need an official seat! It can also be used as a sex seat before or after the shower/s. I would make it to where I could convert the height if I want.

Anyone, I would appreciate any suggestions! I'm hoping I have all the right tools.





I saw that someone made this. I emailed him and asked for directions but I haven't gotten a response yet.
http://slave4mymaster.wordpress.com/tag/queening/



I found this pic of the underside on xtube where someone had posted a video. Maybe instead of using springs I could do elastic bands? can anyone tell me what kind of screw eyes these are? I could only find the straight ones online.

joyrider.png
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:01 PM   #2
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It's no wonder LD is dh's favorite.
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:10 PM   #3
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Those springs look like they would hurt! I would love to make something like this. Not for my use...for yours. It is really super easy.
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:16 PM   #4
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If you get me the phone number of the redhead, I'll give you some structural engineering expertise...

What the hell are you being so cheap for? Isn't that $400 like one dom session?
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:40 PM   #5
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I may be being a bit miserly, and I could have someone buy it for me... but I want to make it myself. Why pay so much for something that looks like it would be easy and fun to make? If it proves too difficult (which I don't think it should) I'll break down and buy it. There are also a few cosmetic changes I'd make to it to make it really mine. The redhead is sometimes blonde but I think she's a natural ginger. I am a fan of her work. Ms. Karin von Kroft from Arizona. http://www.domkarin.com/
http://www.domkarin.com/contact.html

Now that I have hooked you up, help a sista out!

Katie, I'm going to make padded sleeves for the springs, trey already brought that point up. thank you hon!
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:49 PM   #6
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You can probably buy all the parts at a Home Depot, but cutting the steel pipes to custom length and then threading them is no small chore. A plumber would probably charge you more than what it would cost just to order it.
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagoboy View Post
It's no wonder LD is dh's favorite.
What he said.

Good shit!!
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:59 PM   #8
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bite me
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:01 PM   #9
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I don't plan on cutting and threading the pipe, I've had that done before for wall unit for a client, it was a fucking nightmare. I just plan on using different length pipe with the connectors to get the two different heights that I want.

and wu I don't charge anymore for my dom sessions as I do for a pse session and for two reasons: 1. I love them and don't get enough of them and 2. I am an experienced black Domina (which is not as common as you'd think, the experienced part I mean) and I don't want to price myself in such a place where it would make anyone hesitant to come try something different.
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:10 PM   #10
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LD

Chicagoboy is correct. The first one will probably cost $800 in mistakes to get it right. The 5th one will cost $100. From the pictures I can't figure out how they were able to make a square threaded connection without a union. I would probably try to make my first one using 2" PVC schedule 80 and glue the connections together. Like in some outdoor furniture. I think that would cut the cost and make it easier to build a one off design. The eye bolts through the seat are counter sunk into the top of the seat so the nut does not scratch your butt. The eyes are bent over 90 degrees. The springs would be trial and error. Let me know how it works out
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:38 PM   #11
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Home Depot will cut and thread galvanized pipe for you to whatever length you want for a charge.

Use 3/4" galvanized pipe to length, (4) 3/4" galvanized elbow fittings, (6) 3/4" galvanized tee fittings, (4) 3/4"x2" nipples, and (4) 3/4" galvanized flanges to make the frame.

They're using trampoline mat springs, which should work fine.

The toilet seat is either open front or closed front, your choice.

To attach the springs to the frame, I would recommend drilling 5/16" holes in the galvanized pipe and using a 1/4" stainless steel eye bolt threaded through the hole with nuts on both the outside and inside of the pipe. They're close enough to the end of the pipe that you can get a nut on the thread inside of the pipe. This requires a drill and a metal drillbit for drilling galvanized pipe. I'd recommend a punch to make a starter indentation so your bit doesn't drift.

To attach the springs to the toilet seat requires a bit more work. I've never seen a 90 degree angle eye bolt like he's using, so that means bending an eye bolt. Home Depot may be able to do that for you if you ask. That means drilling a 5/16" hole through the plastic toilet seat in four places. Now, to attach it, you can't have an eye bolt stick out out of the top into your ass, so he's countersunk it, which you'll have to do. You'll need 3/4" washers on both top and bottom of the seat under the nuts, so you'll need a 3/4" hole drilled down far enough into the top to cover the eye bolt thread, careful not to take out so much material that it weakens the seat too much. This needs the same drill and bit as above, plus a 3/4" countersink bit.

By the time you're all done, I bet it costs you $200 in materials, plus whatever Home Depot will charge to cut and thread pipe. Plus the price of any tools you need to buy, and yeah, you're goings of fuck it up five times first...

Width measurements will be critical though, to ensure that the springs attach the seat to the frame, and don't sag too much when you put your overly fat ass on it and weight it down...
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:44 PM   #12
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Heh
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:46 PM   #13
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I skimmed down to the bottom of your post because I knew there was going to be a caveat... LOL you never disappoint. Mistress von Kroft will have a great time making you her bitch boi. Thancks for the instructions, and I trust your input.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wakeuр View Post
Home Depot will cut and thread galvanized pipe for you to whatever length you want for a charge.

Use 3/4" galvanized pipe to length, (4) 3/4" galvanized elbow fittings, (6) 3/4" galvanized tee fittings, (4) 3/4"x2" nipples, and (4) 3/4" galvanized flanges to make the frame.

They're using trampoline mat springs, which should work fine.

The toilet seat is either open front or closed front, your choice.

To attach the springs to the frame, I would recommend drilling 5/16" holes in the galvanized pipe and using a 1/4" stainless steel eye bolt threaded through the hole with nuts on both the outside and inside of the pipe. They're close enough to the end of the pipe that you can get a nut on the thread inside of the pipe. This requires a drill and a metal drillbit for drilling galvanized pipe. I'd recommend a punch to make a starter indentation so your bit doesn't drift.

To attach the springs to the toilet seat requires a bit more work. I've never seen a 90 degree angle eye bolt like he's using, so that means bending an eye bolt. Home Depot may be able to do that for you if you ask. That means drilling a 5/16" hole through the plastic toilet seat in four places. Now, to attach it, you can't have an eye bolt stick out out of the top into your ass, so he's countersunk it, which you'll have to do. You'll need 3/4" washers on both top and bottom of the seat under the nuts, so you'll need a 3/4" hole drilled down far enough into the top to cover the eye bolt thread, careful not to take out so much material that it weakens the seat too much. This needs the same drill and bit as above, plus a 3/4" countersink bit.

By the time you're all done, I bet it costs you $200 in materials, plus whatever Home Depot will charge to cut and thread pipe. Plus the price of any tools you need to buy, and yeah, you're goings of fuck it up five times first...

Width measurements will be critical though, to ensure that the springs attach the seat to the frame, and don't sag too much when you put your overly fat ass on it and weight it down...
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:02 PM   #14
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I read up on her...she only does dom sessions, so she's a no go...
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:12 PM   #15
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well I tried. perhaps you should try a light session. you may like it.

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